Installation

Engine Installation Procedure

1. Locate Oil Pressure Source for Supply

• Ideal locations are an unused (plugged) port on the filter head, unused port near oil pressure sending unit, or an actual plugged port (typically in the front or rearmost side of the block) in the oil galley itself. In any of these locations, a simple adapter fitting can be installed to facilitate the 4 JIC filtration supply line. If none of these locations are accessible, a tee can be installed either behind OPSU, off of a compressor supply line, or PTO supply.

2. Locate a Return to Sump

• Ideal locations are plug fittings in the block (often auxiliary returns for different turbo or filtration configurations), plug fittings in the oil pan, or removable plates on the block or pan. Plates will need to be removed, drilled, and tapped to accommodate a fitting. If none of these are viable options for a return, the oil filler neck can be removed, drilled and tapped.
• Other alternatives include drilling and tapping of either the valve cover or timing cover, but either of these procedures should be in a controlled shop environment; neither is recommended for a field installation.

3. Determine Appropriate Mounting Location for Bowl.

• Taking your supply and return locations into consideration, locate a stationary area on the vehicle or equipment on which to mount the filtration unit, making sure it will be accessible for service.
• The mounting location will always need to be a sturdy metal surface. Consider how and where the lines will need to be routed when selecting this area. Also note there needs to be approximately 8 of clearance above the bowl so that the filter can be easily lifted out. Ensure this area doesnt locate the bowl in a way that will interfere with the vehicle or equipments normal operation! Be mindful of hydraulic apparatuses, steering linkage, and steering tires. If possible, operate the equipment to fully determine the complete range of motion for its moving parts.
• You will be drilling holes for the bowl bracket so both sides of this location will
need to be accessible. Areas of empty frame rail are ideal on most large vehicles. NOTE THAT UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THE FLANGE (TOP) OF A FRAME RAIL BE DRILLED. The filtration bowl can typically be mounted to the side of a frame rail. Battery boxes and storage compartments can often be viable options as well, so long as there is access for the lines. On certain vehicles and equipment a sheet metal surface may be the only clear area available for mounting. Unless the sheet metal surface is of considerable thickness, it is usually ideal for the filtration bowl to rest on top of the sheet metal surface rather than hang from the side of it.
• Now is a good time to remove the filtration bowl from the box and ensure the proper hardware is included. Check to make sure you have the bowl itself, the bracket, and all of the hardware. The hardware includes two 10mm bolts, two 10mm nuts, two star washers, two 12mm bolts, two lock washers, two bowl adapter fittings, and their two seal washers. Also visually inspect the filtration bowl, looking for any casting defects or cavitations.

4. Assemble and Mount Filtration Bowl.

• With the filtration bowl and fittings unpacked, locate the two filtration adapter fittings and their two seal washers. Press the seal washers over the fine thread end of the adapter fittings until they rest in their recess. Screw each fitting with its seal washer into the bottom ports of the filtration bowl and tighten with a 9/16 wrench to 20 lb-ft. Do not over tighten as these are steel fittings going into an aluminum casting.
• To mount the filtration bowl bracket, two 3/8 holes will need to be drilled. Take the bracket and use it along with the bowl to mock up the installation. Double check the suitability and then mark holes to be drilled using the bracket as your template. ALWAYS KNOW WHAT IS BEHIND THE SURFACE YOU ARE DRILLING. Often wiring harnesses, grease lines, or air lines are routed inside frame rails or behind other likely mounting surfaces. Always check and double check to ensure nothing will be touched by either your drill bit or the mounting hardware.
• Since this will always be a metal surface, carbide drill bits are usually best. Harder, thicker surfaces such as frame rails will need to be drilled carefully on low speed with cutting oil (Power Up RCL 1000 makes for excellent cutting oil). Drill a 3/16 pilot hole all the way through. Re-drill each hole with the 3/8 bit. Thinner, less fortified surfaces can often be drilled straight through with the 3/8 bit.
• Match the bracket to the holes and insert both 10mm bolts through the holes. Use the star washers in conjunction with the 10mm nuts on the other side. Fingertighten nuts until they bottom out on the star washers. Ensure bracket is level if necessary. Tighten bolts on bracket side with an 11/16 wrench and torque to 70 lb-ft.
• Slide filtration bowl into bracket, aligning the holes on the end of the bracket with the mounting holes in the filtration bowl. Secure the bowl to the bracket using the two 12mm bolts and lock washers. Tighten with a ¾ wrench and torque to 30 lbft. Ensure the filtration bowl is tightly locked in to the mounting bracket.
• Locate 1/8th NPT sample port and apply Teflon tape or pipe sealant to the threads. Screw the sample port into the top of the bowl lid and tighten with an 11/16 wrench. Depending on tape or sealant used, this will need to be tightened at least ½ turn past snug or approximately 15-18 lb-ft. Do not over-tighten.

5. Install Oil Pressure Supply Fitting

6. Install Return Fitting

• In cases where an adapter fitting is being used, simply determine the size of the plug fitting and select the appropriate tool to remove it. Carefully break it loose and unscrew it.
• Match it to an appropriate 4 JIC adapter and install it by screwing it in by hand, then torque to spec. O-ring type fittings typically need no more than 20 lb-ft. If the adapter fitting is pipe thread, sealant or tape should be used and care taken not to over-tighten the tapered thread.
• If the return requires a plate be drilled and tapped to accept a fitting, carefully break the bolts loose that secure the plate and remove it taking care not to damage the gasket if one is present. Removing the plate leaves the internals of the engine exposed to the elements, so carefully obstruct the hole with a clean rag. Secure the plate in a vice and mark the desired location of the fitting. Drill the plate 5/16 using cutting oil and a low speed setting. A smaller pilot hole may be necessary in certain cases. With the plate secured in the vice, carefully tap 1/8 NPT using cutting oil, taking care to ensure the tap and threads stay clean. Make sure plate is completely clean of any shavings. Remove rag and reinstall the plate using new gasket or sealant if necessary. Torque to mfg spec (usually 18-20 lbft). Screw a 1/8 NPT to 4 JIC adapter into plate with sealant or tape and tighten.
• If the return requires the engine oil filler neck be drilled and tapped to accept a fitting, remove the neck by unbolting it or unclamping it as applicable. Take care not to damage any gasket or seal that may be present. Removing the filler neck leaves a hole exposing the internals of the engine. Carefully obstruct this hole with a clean rag. Locate the most suitable location on the filler neck in relation to how the return line will run from it to the bowl. Also try to drill it at its thickest point. Secure the filler neck in the vice and mark the desired location of the return fitting. Carefully drill the filler neck 5/16 using cutting oil and low speed. Carefully tap the filler neck 1/8 NPT using cutting oil. Once the filler neck is drilled and tapped take extra care to ensure it is completely clean and free of any shavings inside and out. Spray solvent through it to flush any stubborn shavings. Insert the 1/8 NPT to 4 JIC adapter fitting. Use normal tape or sealant if the filler neck is cast or otherwise of considerable thickness. If it is thinner-walled tubing, install the adapter with two-part epoxy to ensure integrity. Remove rag and reinstall the filler neck.

7. Connect Lines

• Lines from the engine fittings to the bowl should be routed away from moving parts such as fans, belts, suspension components, or hydraulic accessories. They should be confined and protected within the equipment as well as possible and not left in any manner that they may be snagged or dangle.
• Once an ideal route for the lines has been established, various lengths of line can be joined with unions to determine the exact total length of the supply and return lines.
• If the lines are not on hand in the exact length determined for either side, lines can be joined with 4 JIC male-male union fittings. The union is held with an openend ½ wrench while each line fitting is tightened 11-12 lb-ft with a 9/16 wrench.
• Often 90-deg or 45-deg fittings will be needed to aid in routing the lines and reducing any severe bends in the filtration lines. In any case one of these fittings is used, it to be properly oriented, held in place with a 7/16 wrench and tightened 11-12 lb-ft with a 9/16 wrench.
• In many cases when the system is installed on a vehicle or equipment with moving parts the lines will come in close contact with other lines, hoses, and wiring harnesses. In these cases, it is important to wrap the stainless braided filtration line with rubber 3/8 fuel line in order to protect it and anything it may contact. Cut the fuel line in the length of the filtration line and slice it down the center with a razor blade or specially designed tool. Cover the filtration line with the fuel line and secure every 12 with a tie-wrap. In areas where both the supply and return lines are run together, both can be secured in 5/8 rubber heater hose. When both lines run together, always make sure each is somehow designated as supply and return.
• Once the Lines are assembled and covered, connect the filtration supply line to the supply adapter fitting or tee. Connect the return line to the return fitting. Fingertighten the nuts for either. Hold the lines with a ½ wrench to keep from developing a twist; tighten nuts using a 9/16 wrench 11-12 lb-ft.
• Run the lines through the determined route and to the bowl. Connect supply line to fitting on bowl designated inlet. Connect return line to fitting on bowl designated outlet. Finger-tighten the nuts for either. Hold the lines with a ½ wrench to keep from developing a twist; tighten nuts using a 9/16 wrench 11-12 lb-ft.
• Use heavy-duty tie-wraps liberally to secure filtration lines wherever possible.
• Recheck ALL connections and unions to ensure properly tightened.

8. Test System

• Start engine and bring oil to operating temperature.
• Check all connections for any sign of leak.
• Ensure bowl is warm to the touch and circulating.

9. Complete Post-Installation Checklist

installationchecklist